How To Attach Clear Painted Model Part
Attaching Articulate Parts
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| Attaching Articulate Parts Posted by DWood538 on Th, February 13, 2014 7:32 PM I was following a build thread past Masa Narita, and when attaching clear parts to the model, he uses Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Does this not fog the clear parts? How do you know if a glue will fog the part or not (obviously without physically testing it)? He also uses this cement over pigment, is this a good idea? As well, this is a more general question, but how exercise yous know which blazon of glue to utilise for sure tasks? For instance when would you utilize CA glue, or a plastic welder, or something like Tamiya cement? I know this is a pretty amateur question, simply I don't take that much feel and I've never seen an article on glues. If not explain information technology here, could you direct me in finding the info? -Derek
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| Posted by panzerpilot on Th, February 13, 2014 7:43 PM Good Question. It depends on what function. I utilise Tamiya Cement merely when gluing a canopy onto an airframe. For gunsights, fly lights, etc, I use Micro Kristal Clear. It dries clear and does affect the clear part. I have found out the hard way that using CA is a generally no no around clear parts, since it fogs it very easily. -Tom
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| Posted past Nathan T on Thursday, Feb 13, 2014 7:45 PM Plastic cement only works on plastic. I can fog or craze clear parts. If the window pane is non right forth the join of the clear part, y'all can get away with using plastic cement, such as on a windscreen or canopy for most modern jets. Otherwise for clear parts, you lot can use white glue, or special clear parts cement such as Micro crystal clear, or Gator Glue, or Testor'south clear parts cement.(these are all esentially white glue). Superglue may work. Some super glues are non fogging. Resin and photograph etch metallic parts need either superglue or white mucilage. Some small parts, such as pe musical instrument panels or articulate acetate sheets can exist glued together with Hereafter, or any other clear gloss.
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| Posted past plasticjunkie on Friday, February xiv, 2014 7:25 AM I strictly use Testors Clear Parts Cement. It dries crystal articulate and provides splendid bond. Why hazard ruining a part?
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
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| Posted by dflu78 on Friday, February 14, 2014 10:27 AM Tamiya Extra Sparse does non craze clear parts. I used to be very skeptical of using any type of plastic welder on clear parts, only I have been for a flake now and it isn't a problem on one unpainted surface to some other...similar a windscreen to the forward fuselage. I wouldn't use it on small parts like gun-sights etc....for that some white mucilage works actually well. Like others hav said....DON'T utilise CA. Equally for using Tamiya on painted parts....I've seen information technology washed...and I've tried it...y'all tin...if you're careful...but I generally recommend avoiding it at all costs. just scrape the paint abroad from the surfaces to be mated...it's much easier and avert accidents.
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